View from the rim.
Rim Trail
When we camped at the North Rim five years ago, dogs weren’t allowed on any of the Grand Canyon trails, so we were pleased to discover that dogs are allowed on the main Rim Trail, which goes for two or three miles along the south rim. So Bailey got to join us on our first rim walk, and again when we went back for a ranger-led Full Moon Walk. This is a wide, easy trail – paved for a good portion – with many railed walkouts for spectacular views. We hadn’t seen the Grand Canyon from the south side, and I think it might offer more expansive views than the north.
One day Kate and I rode our bikes along the Rim Trail east toward Kaibab Trail. What a pinch-me experience that was. The sun warm, the sky shouting blue, a cooling breeze. I pedaled easily on the paved, empty trail and tried to keep one eye on the path as I took in the overwhelming view to the left.
Bright Angel Trail.
Bright Angel Trail
A ranger said only five percent of Grand Canyon visitors venture beyond the rim and that hiking into the canyon is an experience not to be missed. Hilary and Anita are strong, intrepid hikers, and they chose to hike the Kaibab trail at dawn. The Bright Angel trail is much more populated, but not quite as steep. Kate wasn’t up for joining me, but she dropped me off at the trailhead. It’s a 4.5 mile hike down to Indian Gardens, where many people camp for the night. And another four miles to the Colorado River at the bottom. There are rest stops with water and toilets at 1.5 miles and 3 miles. I figured I could make it to the first rest stop and back before lunch.
The hike down is pretty easy, and that’s a pitfall for many. There are many signs warning against over exertion, saying to bring plenty of water and snacks. But the hike up is steep and rigorous, and it’s so much hotter in the canyon than at the rim. I saw many people struggling on the way up. One family huddled around an older man whose sciatica was hurting too much for him to hike further. Teenagers sweating in tight jeans and sneakers. Small children who skipped happily coming down but now whined and dragged.
My sweaty self.
I struggled myself. The 1.5 miles down seemed longer than it was, just because of the incline of the trail. And I stopped frequently to take in and photograph the stunning views. At the rest stop, I had a sandwich and refilled my water bottle, then headed back up. It was so hot, and for the first 10 minutes or so, I was panting hard. My back was hurting from the uneven weight of my slung camera. I stopped in shady spots a few times to catch my breath and cool down. And at one point, I trailed behind a group of young men coming up from an overnight, weighted with huge packs, and I thought to myself, “Okay, I’ve got nothing to complain about.”
Back at the top, I felt accomplished and proud of my sweaty self. And the ranger was right; it was an experience not to be missed.
Sunsets
Full moon over the canyon.
On our second evening, we all chose to take the Hermit’s Rest shuttle, for the best sunset views. We left enough time to hop on and off at a few places, finishing at Hopi Point, which offers a clear view of the western horizon.
As luck would have it, the clouds came up as the sun went down, and the sunset itself was a little disappointing. But I did get a few photos of sun on the cliffs before the clouds came. And we enjoyed seeing flocks of birds, some condors, swooping.
The next evening, we went to the Visitor Center to go on a Full Moon Walk. We got there just in time to see a beautiful sunset, but it wasn’t very visible from that point of the canyon.
Kate, Bailey, and me.
Wish I could have been on that hike with you. Sounds magnificent.
Jennifer – I visited the canyon 30 + years ago, and regret being one of those tourists that never ventured more than a hundred yards off the rim. But I did sit on an extended rock formation with my feet dangling off. Felt like a god and then again like an insect. Congratulations for the effort on the hikes and the rewards gained.
mark
This is just making me so excited about heading that way in the fall! I can’t believe you caught the GC for a full moon! And what a hike! I hope we can get off the tourist trail like you. Funny that you found a little more energy when you spotted the guys with the big packs. On to look at your photos, now!